Christmas tree doorknob hanger

by Jenness Fulton December 04, 2020

Introduction

This little Christmas tree doorknob hanger was something I created a few years ago. It has changed a little over the last few years as I have refined the pattern. The crocodile stitches and the “ornaments” (in the form of different beads and bells) are created at the same time as the background. They also create little points where you can add other mini ornaments (I might see if I can write up a few of my patterns for mini ornaments to fit this little tree). Technically, there should be a little more space between my crocodile stitches. However, I was playing around with placement and decided to go with a crowded tree structure, which worked with the green yarn that I had left on the skein at the time I finalised this pattern (I had less than a metre left when I finished making the “leaves” of my tree).

Notions

3.5 mm (E) crochet hook

Yarn needle and scissors

DK Yarn in green, brown and yellow

I used 4 Seasons Marvel 8 ply yarn (green and brown) and 4 Seasons Marvel Soft 8 ply yarn (yellow) in the following quantities:

Cadium green (colourway 1020) 9 g (26 m, 28 yds)

Brown marble (colourway 1021) 1 g (2.8 m, 2.3 yds)

Yellow (colourway 80270347) 2 g (4.6 m, 5 yds)

15 Beads with a hole that is big enough to thread your yarn onto. I used children’s craft beads and some little bells that had a place to thread them onto the yarn

Steel crochet hook – optional for if your bead holes are too small for your yarn needle (I had to use these for threading the bells onto my yarn as the yarn needle would not go through the holes on the bells)

Size and gauge

Gauge is not important for this pattern. Feel free to use any weight yarn and an appropriate sized hook. If you want to use a thicker weight yarn you may find it tricky to add beads unless they have a very large hole. Finished dimensions: 11 cm (4 ¼”) wide, 14 cm (6”) high

Difficulty Level

Intermediate

Crochet Abbreviations

US terminology used

ch(s) Chain(s)

FPhdc Front post half double crochet

hdc Half double crochet

rnd Round

RS Right side

sc Single crochet

sl st(s) Slip stitch(es)

st/st(s) Stitch(es)

WS Wrong side

[] Work instructions between [] the amount of times specified

* Repeat instructions between asterisks the amount of times specified

( ) Work instructions within brackets into the same stitch

Special stitch

Crocodile stitch

This version of the crocodile stitch is not your standard crocodile stitch though I’m not sure if there is a “standard” for making this stitch since I have seen it defined a few different ways in various patterns. Generally, this stitch is made around the posts of two consecutive double crochet stitches with 5 FPdc around the post of one of the double crochets and 5 FPdc around the post of the next. Sometimes there is a picot between the sets of 5 FPdc and sometimes there is not (it all depends on the look you wish to achieve). Because this stitch pattern is relatively wide, you generally skip a few stitches between crocodiles stitches so that your work does not become too crowded.

In this pattern, I’ve reduced the stitch sizes to 5 FPhdc around each the posts of two consecutive half double crochets. I’ve also reduce the spacing between the stitches, mostly because I was trying to make sure I had enough yarn for the project (I was using up some leftover green yarn and the crocodile stitch is a yarn-eater stitch).

For all of the rows with crocodile stitches, you will be working with the right side of your work facing. However, for every second set of crocodile stitches, you will be working the crocodile stitches backwards, however, the method is still the same, working your first set of FPhdc down the post of the first stitch and then up the post of the next stitch. Because you are working some stitches up and some down the post of your stitch, I have added a purple arrow in each photo pointing to the top of the stitches.

Working down the post of first the indicated stitch make 5 FPhdc around the post of the stitch.

Chain 3 {this is the first part of your picot}

Push a bead or bell down to the 3rd chain, slip stitch in the 3rd chain from hook collecting your yarn in such a way that your bead/bell is incorporated into the picot.

Working up the post of the next hdc, make 5 FPhdc around the post of the stitch.

These last set of photos show what happens when you work your stitches in the opposite direction. As with the previous crocodile stitch, you are adding the 5 FPhdc down the post of the one stitch then, after the picot, you turn your work and make the next 5 up the post of another stitch. The arrow in the far right picture indicates where the beginning of the next crocodile stitch will begin.

Instructions

Before you begin, thread all of your beads onto your yarn (these can be added while you are making the tree but it is easier to add them if they are already on the yarn). I used a mixture of children’s craft beads (which fit nicely on my DK yarn) and small bells (which needed to be added using a steel crochet hook). In the photos below you can see that the bell did not go very far onto my yarn needle but the bead was able to go the length of the needle including the eye.

To add the bell using the steel crochet hook:

Put the bell onto the hook as far as it will go.

Place your yarn onto the hook part so that as much of it goes under the hook.

Hold the sides of the yarn firmly on either side and slowly move the bell off the hook onto the yarn.

Once the bell is on the yarn you can remove your hook and pull the bell on further until just one strand is on your bell.

When you have all your beads on your hook you are ready to begin. You will have to push your beads and/or bells down your yarn until you are ready to use them. I find that it is better to use beads/bells with larger holes that can be added with a yarn needle as these are much easier to slide down the yarn.

Main leaves and branches of tree with ornaments

With green yarn chain 23

Row 1 Hdc in the 2nd ch from hook and every other ch across, ch 1 and turn. (22 hdc)

Row 2 Sc in the first st, ch 1, sk next st, [crocodile st around the next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 2 sts] 4 times, crocodile st around the next 2 sts, ch 1, sc in the last st, ch 1 and turn. (5 crocodile sts, 2 sc)

Row 3 Working only in the sts from Row 1, Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 18 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (20 hdc)

Row 4 Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 16 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (18 hdc)

Row 5 Sc in the first st, ch 1, sk next st, with RS facing {this is the side with the first set of crocodile stitches facing you}, [crocodile st around the next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 2 sts] 3 times, crocodile st around the next 2 sts, ch 1, sc in the last st, ch 1 and turn. (4 crocodile st, 2 sc)

Row 6 Working only in the sts from Row 4, Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 14 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (16 hdc)

Row 7 Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 12 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (14 hdc)

Row 8 Sc in the first st, ch 1, sk next st, with RS facing {this is the side with the first set of crocodile stitches facing you}, [crocodile st around the next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 2] 2 times, crocodile st around the next 2 sts, ch 1, sc in the last st, ch 1 and turn. (3 crocodile st, 2 sc)

Row 9 Working only in the sts from Row 7, Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 10 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (12 hdc)

Row 10 Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 8 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (10 hdc)

Row 11 Sc in the first st, ch 1, sk 1 with RS facing {this is the side with the first set of crocodile stitches facing you}, crocodile st around the next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 2, crocodile st around the next 2 sts, ch 1, sc in the last st, ch 1 and turn. (2 crocodile st, 2 sc)

Row 12 Working only in the sts from Row 10, Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 6 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (8 hdc)

Row 13 Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 4 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (6 hdc)

Row 14 Sc in the first st, ch 1, sk next st, with RS facing {this is the side with the first set of crocodile stitches facing you}, crocodile st around the next 2 sts, ch 1, sc in the last st, ch 1 and turn. (1 crocodile st, 2 sc)

Row 15 Working only in the sts from Row 13, Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 2 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (4 hdc)

Row 16 Hdc2tog 2 times, ch 1 and turn. (2 hdc)

Row 17 Hdc2tog, fasten off leaving a long tail to make a loop to fit around your door knob, weave in the ends. (1 hdc)

Check what size you want to fit your doorknob and then secure the loop and weave in your ends.

Tree trunk

Row 1 With a slip knot of brown yarn on your hook, with WS facing, hdc in the 10th chain of your starting chain and the next 3 chains, ch 1 and turn. (4 hdc)

Rows 2-4 Hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (4 hdc)

Fasten off and weave in the ends. Feel free to add extra rows if you want a longer tree trunk.

Star for the top of the tree (optional)

With yellow yarn make a magic ring

Rnd 1 Ch 1, 5 sc into the ring, sl st to the first st. (5 sc)

Rnd 2 [Ch 3, sc in the 2nd ch from hook, dc in the next ch, sl st to the next st] 5 times. Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto the top of your tree.

Sew your star to the top of your tree and weave in any remaining ends.

I hope you enjoyed my little pattern. If you would like to download a pdf copy of this pattern you can download it here.

Copyright Information

This is a free pattern, and by using it, you’re agreeing to the following legally-protected conditions.

You’re welcome to sell what you make with it; for online listings, please link back to my website: http://www. NessiesNotions.com

Pattern by Jenness Fulton of Nessie’s Notions

Here are the “do nots”:

Do not resell the pattern, altered or in its original form.
Do not copy and paste the pattern onto your own blog, in a Facebook group, or anywhere else. Simply link to my website instead. Anything beyond this is copyright theft, regardless of what your pattern-sharing buddies tell you.
Do not pull any of my photos or photos from this pattern to promote yourself or your crochet business on your own blog, Facebook page, or anywhere else. Do not post a translation of the pattern anywhere – this is copyright theft.