Camel stitch sweater pattern for 15" doll
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Introduction When I was thinking about what to create using the camel stitch, I thought it might be fun to create a sweater (or as we call it in Aotearoa, a “jersey”). I haven’t designed a sweater before, although I have designed some cardigans (none of them published though). All the cardigans that I’ve designed had raglan sleeves and were worked from the top down. However, for this little sweater, I thought it would be fun to work sideways so that you made the most of the stretch of the fabric created and also to give the illusion of a knitted brioche sweater. I originally made a version for a small 6” doll. But, since I don’t have the doll pattern ready to go yet, I thought I’d try to make something that is more universally useful. My children were given a couple of 15” baby dolls (Peterkin brand) and I thought that it might be nice to make some sweaters for them. |
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| My initial design didn’t work quite as well as I had hoped so this design has taken a few more weeks to get up on my blog than I had hoped. I was initially using some variegated yarn and it looked lovely but it was tricky to frog when I decided I wasn’t happy with the design so I have left it made up while working on a better design. I will frog this later and make it using my re-designed pattern. |  |
| In the end I used lots of scraps of DK weight yarn to make a design that I was reasonably happy with. You can see my colourful (but unfinished) design in the photos to the right. I kind of like how it turned out and might finish it off at some stage and weave in the ends. |  |
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I’ve tried to minimize the amount of sewing required in this pattern although, naturally, there are a few ends that need to be sewn in at the end. I’m not 100% happy with the design of the sleeves yet so I may come back to this design at some later stage to re-work it. I think it will probably be re-worked as a cardigan (maybe with some other detail added in) with some testing before the pattern is released. This pattern has only been tested by me so there may be some minor mistakes in it (please feel free to comment if you spot an obvious mistake and I will fix it). I’ve called this sweater the “Penny sweater” after the name my youngest gave to the little girl doll (who apparently likes the colour blue, hence the colours used in this pattern). For this pattern I decided to add the collar and bottom band in a contrasting colour but it works using a single colour. |
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Notions
4 mm crochet hook
DK yarn in whatever colour(s) you wish. I used 4 Seasons Marvel 8 ply yarn in 2 colours in the following quantities:
Saxe blue (colourway 1045) 31 g (88 m, 96 yds)
Twilight blue (colourway 1016) 15 g (43 m, 46 yds)
Yarn needle
Scissors
Size and gauge
*One row of blhdc, 1 row of camel st* 2 times, 1 row of blhdc, with 8 stitches per row = 2.5”
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Crochet Abbreviations
US Terminology used
BPhdc Back post half double crochet
ch(s) Chain(s)
FPhdc Front post half double crochet
hdc Half double crochet
sl st(s) Slip stitch(es)
st(s) Stitch(es)
() Work stitches in brackets into the same stitch
[] Work instructions in brackets the number of times indicated
** Work instructions between asterisks the number of times indicated
Special stitches
Camel stitch
This stitch is almost identical to a half crochet stitch except that you insert your hook into the third loop instead of the front and back loops. The third loop can be found just below the front and back loops. By working into this loop you effectively push the front and back loops forward.
The finished stitches look different depending on whether you are looking at the front or back of your work:
| Back | Front |
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Important instructions
The ch 1 at the beginning/end of a row/round does not count as a stitch. Where a row/round begins with “working in BLO” or “working in 3rd loop” all stitches in the row/round are to be worked in BLO or 3rd loop unless otherwise stated. The instruction only lasts for that row/round.
Instructions
With your chosen yarn colour, ch 22
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Row 1 Hdc in the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, ch 1 and turn. (21 hdc) |
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Row 2 Working in BLO, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (21 blhdc) |
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Row 3 Working in the 3rd loop, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (21 camel sts)
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Row 4 Working in BLO, hdc in the first 10 sts, ch 1 and turn. (10 blhdc)
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Row 5 Working in the 3rd loop, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (10 camel sts)
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Row 6 Working in BLO hdc in each st across, ch 12, turn. (12 ch, 10 blhdc) |
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Row 7 Hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and the next 10 ch, working in the 3rd loop, hdc in the last 10 sts, ch 1 and turn. (10 camel st, 11 hdc) |
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Row 8 Working in BLO, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (21 blhdc) |
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Row 9 Working in 3rd loop, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (21 camel st) |
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Row 10 Working in BLO, hdc in the first 12 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (13 blhdc)
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Row 11 Working in the 3rd loop, hdc2tog, hdc in the remaining 11 sts, ch 1 and turn. (12 camel st) |
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Row 12 Working in BLO, hdc in the first 10 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (11 blhdc) |
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Row 13 Working in the 3rd loop, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (11 camel st) |
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Rows 14 Working in BLO, hdc in the first 10 sts, 2 hdc in the last st, ch 1 and turn. (12 blhdc |
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Row 15 Working in the 3rd loop, 2 hdc, hdc in the remaining 11 sts, ch 1 and turn. (13 camel sts) |
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Row 16 Working in BLO, hdc in the first 12 sts, 2 hdc in the last st, ch 8 and turn. (14 blhdc, 8 ch) |
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Row 17 Hdc in the 2nd loop from hook and the next 6 ch, working in the 3rd loop, hdc in each remaining st across, ch 1 and turn. (14 camel st, 7 hdc) |
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Row 18 Working in BLO, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (21 blhdc) |
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Row 19 Working in 3rd loop, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (21 camel sts) |
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Row 20 Working in BLO, hdc in the first 10 sts, ch 1 and turn. (10 blhdc) |
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Row 21 Working in the 3rd loop, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (10 camel sts) |
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Row 22 Working in BLO, hdc in each st across, ch 12 and turn. (10 blhdc, 12 ch) |
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Row 23 Hdc in the 2nd ch from hook and the next 10 ch. Working in the 3rd loop, hdc in the remaining sts, ch 1 and turn. (10 camel st, 11 hdc) |
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Row 24 Working in BLO, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (21 blhdc) |
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Row 25 Working in the 3rd loop, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (21 camel st) |
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Row 26 Working in BLO, hdc in the first 14 sts, hdc2tog, ch 1 and turn. (15 blhdc) |
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Row 27 Working in 3rd loop, hdc2tog, hdc in the remaining 13 sts, ch 1 and turn. (14 camel st) |
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Row 28 Working in BLO, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (14 blhdc) |
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Row 29 Working in 3rd loop, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (14 camel st) |
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Row 30 Working in BLO, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (14 blhdc) |
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Row 31 Working in 3rd loop, hdc in each st across, ch 1 and turn. (14 camel st) |
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Row 32 Working in the BLO, hdc the first 13 sts, 2 hdc in the last st, ch 1 and turn (15 blhdc) |
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Row 33 With RS together, fold Row 32 to Row 1 and sl st the last 15 sts of the starting chain to the 3rd loop of Row 32. Fasten off and weave in your ends. (15 sl st) |
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Join the shoulder seams at the top to form the armholes. You can either slip stitch these together or you can sew them with a small length of yarn. |
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| Turn out to the right side. |  |
Sleeves
Please note that the sleeves are a little long and baggy. If you wish to have shorter sleeves then leave out rounds 2, 6, 8, 10 and 12 and just do the rounds that have decreases in them.
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Rnd 1 With RS facing join yarn at centre bottom of armhole, hdc evenly around, sl st to first st, ch 1 and turn. (26 hdc) |
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Rnd 2 Hdc in each st around. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (26 hdc) |
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Rnd 3 *Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 11 sts* 2 times. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (24 hdc) |
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Rnd 4 *Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 6 sts* 3 times. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (21 hdc) |
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Rnd 5 Hdc2tog, hdc in the remaining 19 sts. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (20 hdc) |
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Rnd 6 Hdc in each st around. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (20 hdc) |
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Rnd 7 *Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 8 sts* 2 times. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (18 hdc) |
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Rnd 8 Hdc in each st around. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (18 hdc) |
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Rnd 9 *Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 7 sts* 2 times. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (16 hdc) |
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Rnd 10 Hdc in each st around. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (16 hdc) |
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Rnd 11 *Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 6 sts* 2 times. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (14 hdc) |
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Rnd 12 Hdc in each st around. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (14 hdc) |
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Rnd 13 *Hdc2tog, hdc in the next 5 sts* 2 times. Join to the first st with a sl st, ch 1 and turn. (12 hdc) |
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Repeat Rnds 1-13 to make the other sleeve |
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Neckband
The finished collar looks quite wide. If you are using a contrasting colour for your neckband like I did then you may wish to do the first round of the neckband using the same colour as the main part of your sweater or you may wish to reduce the number of rounds in the neckband.
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Rnd 1 With a sl knot of yarn on your hook, make a standing hdc in the centre back of the sweater, hdc evenly around the top of the sweater {make sure you have an even number of stitches}. Sl st to your first st to join (46* hdc) *Please note that this figure is approximate. Whatever stitch count you get for this round will be the total number of stitches you will need to make in subsequent rounds. |
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Rnds 2-4 Ch 1, *FPhdc around the first st, BPhdc around the next st* Repeat around, join to the first st with a sl st. (23 BPhdc, 23 FPhdc) Fasten off and weave in your ends. |
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Bottom band
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Rnd 1 With a sl knot of yarn on your hook, make a standing hdc in the centre back of the sweater, hdc evenly around the top of the sweater {make sure you have an even number of stitches}. Sl st to your first st to join (48* hdc) *Please note that this figure is approximate. Whatever stitch count you get for this round will be the total number of stitches you will need to make in subsequent rounds. |
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Rnds 2-4 Ch 1, *FPhdc around the first st, BPhdc around the next st* Repeat around, join to the first st with a sl st. (24 BPhdc, 24 FPhdc) Fasten off and weave in your ends. |
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Copyright Information
This is a FREE pattern, and by using it, you’re agreeing to the following legally-protected conditions.
You’re welcome to sell what you make with it; for online listings, please link back to my website: nessiesnotions.com
Here are the “do nots”:
Do not resell the pattern, either altered or in its original form.
Do not copy and paste the pattern onto your own Blog, in a Facebook group, or anywhere else. Simply link to my Ravelry page instead. Anything beyond this is copyright theft, regardless of what your pattern-sharing buddies tell you.
Do not pull any of my photos or photos from this pattern to promote yourself or your crochet business on your own Blog, Facebook page, or anywhere else without my permission.